Ela é uma das mulheres mais fotografadas da história e, nos últimos 70 anos, definiu o que significa se vestir como uma rainha.
Não se trata de novas tendências ou ousadia, mas de um estilo icônico.
Ela ficou famosa por seus vestidos e casacos de cores vivas combinados com o chapéu — acompanhados por uma bolsa quadrada inconfundível, um colar de pérolas e um broche de joias. Parece simples, mas o estilo da rainha Elizabeth 2ª se tornou uma fórmula poderosa.
É um estilo que foi aprimorado e refinado ao longo de sete décadas, com o auxílio de designers e figurinistas com quem ela desenvolveu relações próximas de confiança.
“A moda real é divertida, poderosa e cheia de significado”, diz a escritora e comentarista de moda real Elizabeth Holmes.
“Sua imagem é uma grande parte de seu legado.”
Deslumbrante e elaborado
De acordo com o historiador Michael Pick, a rainha sempre teve uma ideia muito clara de como queria parecer.
“As pessoas dizem que ela não sabe nada sobre roupas, mas isso simplesmente não é verdade. Ela é muito astuta sobre o que combina com ela”, diz ele.
Quando tinha 20 anos, a então princesa Elizabeth começou a usar os serviços do designer Norman Hartnell, um relacionamento que ela herdou da rainha-mãe.
Vestidos de saia rodada com a cintura marcada, influenciados pela alta costura francesa, foram combinados com estolas de pele branca e tiaras de diamantes.
Ao assumir seu novo papel como rainha, Hartnell a ajudou a impressionar em banquetes de Estado e turnês reais, com uma série de vestidos de tule e cetim, adornados primorosamente com pérolas, cristais e contas.

Hartnell também criou dois dos vestidos mais importantes que ela usaria — seu vestido de noiva e o que usou na coroação. Pick descreve este processo como uma colaboração.
“Para seu vestido da coroação, Hartnell produziu cerca de oito modelos, e ela escolheu elementos de cada um deles e fez seu próprio”, revela.
Para a rainha, trabalhar com as mesmas pessoas não era apenas uma questão de confiança, mas também de necessidade.
Hartnell tinha a maior casa de alta costura de Londres junto com a maior oficina de bordados, e para alguém tão ocupada quanto a rainha, que precisava de centenas de figurinos novos a cada ano, isso significava que ele tinha a capacidade de desenhar e produzir o que ela precisava.
Ainda assim, a magnitude do trabalho fez com que ela também pedisse ao designer Hardy Amies para trabalhar para ela, começando com um guarda-roupa de looks para uma turnê pelo Canadá em 1951.
Amies levou a rainha a adotar um visual um pouco mais sóbrio, com trajes de dia sob medida e roupas de noite mais elegantes. Até que Ian Thomas a influenciou durante os anos 1970 e 1980 com uma enxurrada de chiffon de cores vivas, estampas florais e arcos.
Nos últimos 24 anos, seus looks foram desenhados e produzidos internamente por uma pequena equipe de cerca de 10 pessoas, liderada por sua figurinista pessoal Angela Kelly.
Cada peça que a rainha usa é feita sob medida e, antes da pandemia de covid-19, ela participava de mais de 300 compromissos por ano.
“É uma quantidade enorme de trabalho”, diz Pick.
“Você não quer a monarca vestindo algo que outra pessoa está vestindo. O público espera algo diferente.”
“Hartnell e Amies a tornaram mais singular, enquanto Angela Kelly foi muito inteligente e conseguiu pegar seu estilo individual e fazê-lo brilhar”.
Chapéu, bolsa, sapatos
Quando a rainha sai em público, todos os aspectos de sua aparência foram meticulosamente planejados.
Os tecidos são verificados em termos de caimento e de como podem se comportar diante de uma brisa. As cores vivas, escolhidas para a estação e ocasião, oferecem um impacto instantâneo para que ela se destaque na multidão. O chapéu, por sua vez, dá mais alguns centímetros à sua pequena estatura e realça seu rosto.
Ela usa sapatos práticos com salto bloco (grosso) — feitos à mão e usados para garantir que sejam confortáveis — e sempre há um guarda-chuva transparente com um acabamento da mesma cor do figurino à sua espera, para que nem sequer o imprevisível clima britânico atrapalhe.

Este estilo-uniforme de se vestir maximiza seu conforto em dias longos, mas também ajuda a definir seu papel, diz Elizabeth Holmes.
“Seu trabalho é ser uma presença calma e consistente. Suas roupas são uma mistura de saber o que esperar, mas também com a capacidade de surpreender e encantar.”
“Até mesmo nos momentos casuais há uma sensação de uniforme, com seu lenço na cabeça e as galochas. Ela mantém a continuidade e também mostra que nunca está de folga.”
Sem dúvida a parte mais icônica do visual da rainha é o que permaneceu praticamente inalterado durante todo o seu reinado: seu famoso penteado é quase idêntico ao estilo que ela usava quando subiu ao trono em 1953.
A não ser pela mudança de cor à medida que envelheceu e abraçou o grisalho natural, ela manteve os dois cachos ondulados característicos na frente e cachos firmes e estruturados nas costas, moldados perfeitamente para acomodar uma coroa ou chapéu.
O estilo tradicional, definido por bobes com a ajuda de um secador, foi o penteado escolhido por muitas das mulheres que seguiam a moda da Grã-Bretanha nos anos do pós-guerra. Mas, embora as tendências tenham mudado, a rainha segue sendo leal a este estilo desde então.
“Seu cabelo é bastante convencional para uma mulher da sua idade, mas é um visual forte, suavizado por cachos para dar uma delicadeza”, diz o cabeleireiro da realeza e de celebridades Richard Ward.
“Acho que o cabelo dela resume o que todos nós realmente valorizamos nela. É sensato, prático e elegante.”

Entre as marcas de estilo mais icônicas da rainha, está sua famosa bolsa Launer de alça alongada.
Diferentemente de outras bolsas clássicas de grife, como a Hermes Birkin ou a Chanel 2.55, que são populares entre mulheres de 20 a 70 anos, a Launer não é tão estilosa ou desejada por mulheres mais jovens, diz Charlotte Rogers, especialista em acessórios de luxo.
Mas ainda há um mercado grande para elas em outros países, especialmente no Oriente Médio. O selo real de aprovação da rainha muda tudo para uma marca.
“O fato de a rainha ainda usar as bolsas Launer tem um peso enorme”, afirma Rogers.
“Os membros da realeza são os influenciadores máximos.”
As bolsas são vendidas por cerca de £ 1,5 mil a £ 2 mil, e dizem que a rainha tem uma coleção de mais de 200 em diferentes cores e estilos.
Parece que no ano do seu jubileu a rainha se tornou mais influente do que nunca, o que não é uma tarefa fácil para uma mulher de 96 anos, segundo Rogers.
“Ela é apropriada para a idade, tem um estilo muito parecido com o que minha avó costumava usar em ocasiões especiais, e acho que ela é influente para as senhoras mais velhas”, diz ela.
“Alfinetes e broches eram vistos como antiquados e agora não consigo comprar o suficiente. Vendem muito rápido.”
Influência real
As roupas da rainha não são apenas escolhas de estilo, mas também declarações de marca, impregnadas de significado e influência.
Quer ela esteja usando um vestido adornado com joias ou uma saia de tweed, cada roupa diz algo sobre ela e seu papel como embaixadora e representante.
“Seu guarda-roupa é sua comunicação”, afirma Matthew Storey, curador do Historic Royal Palaces.
Ela tem que parecer preparada, confiável e tradicional. Mas enquanto fazem a linha acessível e tranquilizadora, suas roupas também “têm que ser dignas da realeza”, acrescenta Holmes.

“É parte do deslumbramento da coroa. No caso da Rainha, suas roupas são feitas sob medida. Você não pode comprá-las, mas isso significa que elas podem ser vistas e admiradas.”
Há também um papel diplomático, acenos sutis para um país ou evento indicados em emblemas ou cores que ela usa.
“O vestido rosa pálido que ela usou na cerimônia de abertura dos Jogos Olímpicos Londres 2012 foi escolhido porque não estava em nenhuma das bandeiras nacionais. Ele se destacava, mas também não mostrava nenhuma aliança“, observa Storey.
Assim como outras marcas icônicas, ela também significa muitas coisas diferentes para as pessoas.
“Como uma obra de arte, você a interpreta à sua maneira”, resume Jeetendr Sehdev, autor e especialista em marcas de celebridades.
“Nós realmente sabemos quem ela é? Não tenho certeza. Mas o que sabemos é o que ela significa para nós e as coisas que ela representa — sua força, ousadia e autenticidade — permanecem relevantes mesmo entre os jovens.”
Segundo ele, membros da realeza mais novos do que ela, como Camilla, duquesa da Cornualha, e Catherine, duquesa de Cambridge, são claramente inspirados por ela, mas a rainha está muito acima.
Há uma grande afeição pela aparência dela, acrescenta Holmes. Ela tem um estilo próprio que sempre lembrará as pessoas dela.
“Ninguém mais se veste como ela“, afirma. “Esse é o trabalho dela e é profundo.”
Fonte: BBC Brasil
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